| Fabric Glossary
ASPECT RATIO: The luff length of the sail divided by the
foot length.
BIAS: The direction diagonally across a piece of fabric
at 45 degrees to the warp and fill.
COUNT: The number of fibers per inch in the warp or fill.
CREEP: Permanent, continuous elongation of a fiber under
a sustained load
CRIMP: The "waviness" of the fiber or yarn when
it is laid over and under fibers or yarns in a fabric. Crimp
can contribute to the elongation of a fabric under load
as it is "pulled out" of the loaded direction
and "pushed into" the less heavily loaded direction.
CROSS-CUT: A sail panel layout in which the seams run roughly
parallel to one another, typically perpendicular to the
leech
DENIER: A measure of the weight of a continuous fiber filament.
It is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a given fiber.
The lower the number, the finer the fiber. Higher denier,
heavier fibers are generally more rugged and durable.
DENIER PER INCH (DPI): A measure of the fabric's relative
weight and strength, expressed as the number of fibers per
inch, generally in the primary yarn direction.
ELONGATION: The difference between the initial length of
a fabric sample and its length after stretching, expressed
in 1/100ths of an inch.
FIBER: The basic entity that is twisted into yarns and
then used in the production of a fabric.
FILAMENT: A single fibril of natural or synthetic textile
fiber. Filaments are twisted or bunched to form fibers.
FILL (WEFT): The yarns or fibers that run across the width
of the roll of fabric, perpendicular to the warp direction.
FILM: An extruded sheet of plastic, most often Mylar®
polyester film. Film's desirable properties include low
stretch, good bias stability, low porosity and good adhesion.
Less desirable properties include low tear strength and
relatively high physical shrinkage (due to creases and folds
in the film).
FLEX STRENGTH: The ability of a fiber to retain its strength
after being folded back and forth, commonly expressed as
percent loss in breaking strength after flutter or fold
testing.
GSM: Weight expressed in grams per square meter.
HAND: A subjective term for the way the fabric feels when
touched. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness and silkiness
all describe the hand of the fabric.
INITIAL MODULUS/MODULUS: A measure of a material's ability
to resist stretch. Initial modulus is usually expressed
as grams of load per unit stretch for a certain fiber denier.
The higher the initial modulus, the less the fiber will
stretch.
INSERT: A yarn or fiber laid directly into a fabric without
first being woven or put into a scrim.
LAMINATE: Fabric constructed from layers of film, scrim
and/or taffeta glued together under high pressure and/or
heat to form a composite sail material.
PRIMARY YARN DIRECTION: The direction that is most resistant
to stretch, typically due to a higher yarn count or a higher
modulus fiber.
RADIAL: A panel layout where the seams and panels radiate
from the corners of the sail in the direction of the highest
load.
SAILMAKERS WEIGHT (SM-oz): Weight in ounces of a piece
of fabric measuring 28.5" x 36".
SCRIM: A base fabric component created by laying out fibers
in a grid pattern with the fibers joined at their intersection.
A scrim can be constructed by passing fill and warp yarns
over and under one another; by knitting, in which the fibers
and "tied" at each intersection; or by laying
the fibers straight across one another and connecting them
at the intersections with glue.
TAFFETA: An unfinished fabric employed as a covering, usually
in laminate sailcloth, often enhancing durability and chafe
resistance
TENACITY: The tensile stress at rupture of a fiber expressed
in grams of force per denier. Tenacity relates to the breaking
strength of fibers and should not be confused with modulus,
which relates more directly with a fiber's ability to resist
stretch.
TENSILE STRENGTH: A measure of the ability of a fiber,
yarn or fabric to withstand pulling stresses.
THREADLINE: The direction of the fibers or yarns in the
warp, fill or bias.
UV RESISTANCE: A measure of the effect of sunlight on cloth.
UV resistance is usually expressed as the time it would
take for a material exposed to sunlight to lose half of
its breaking strength.
WARP: The yarns or fibers in a fabric that run the length
of a roll of cloth and, in a woven fabric, are interlaced
with the fill (weft) yarns.
WOVEN: Material made by interlacing fibers over and under
each other in a regular pattern. Types of weaves include
plain, leno and basket, among others.
YARN: A continuous strand of fibers created when a cluster
of individual fibers are twisted together. Yarns are used
to create fabrics. |